Field research, Chicago edition

I’m a night owl by nature, so I require particular motivation to arise before the sun. But a weekend adventure with R and E in Chicago was justification enough to spur me into the pre-dawn world. Coffee in hand, we hopped a quick flight to the Windy City and arrived in time for breakfast. Two decades had passed since my last visit, and I was excited to see the sights. A chilly drizzle one afternoon was the perfect excuse to spend some time at the Art Institute with Edward Hopper’s Nighthawks, Georges Seurat’s Sunday on La Grande Jatte, and Grant Wood’s American Gothic. We visited Sue, the world’s most famous Tyrannosaurus rex, in her new exhibit at the Field Museum. Strolling around the Loop and through Millennium Park, we explored the iconic architecture of Chicago’s skyscrapers. A cornucopia of ethnic food provided sustenance: smoked fish and bagels and pastrami sandwiches at 11 City Diner, deep-dish pizza at Lou Malnati’s, Ukrainian fare at Tryzub, donuts at Stan’s, spicy curry at Dao Thai.

 And, of course, there were cocktails.

Cindy’s Rooftop was notable for the chic clientele and stunning views of the night skyline, but the drinks were merely serviceable. However, we struck gold at the Milk Room, located in the same building. A Prohibition-era speakeasy, this tiny eight-seat bar is known for its collection of rare vintage spirits. The cocktails were pricy, but it’s not every day that you get to sip an Old-Fashioned or Mai Tai crafted with 30-year-old spirits. At the opposite end of the ambiance spectrum, but just as enjoyable, was Three Dots and a Dash. This kitschy tiki bar, replete with thatched roofing, fishing nets, and Polynesian totems, offered an appealing menu of tropical libations. I opted for the namesake cocktail, while R chose the Jet Pilot - both delicious rum-filled drinks, served in festive mugs, attractively garnished with fruits and flowers.

But the high point of our cocktail tour was undoubtedly The Aviary. Set in a quiet low-lit lounge behind a heavily draped entrance, their wildly inventive cocktails, some prepared in unusual vessels (e.g., a glass-sided canteen), created a truly memorable experience. The three-drink prix fixe menu with food pairing was definitely the way to go. Standouts included Jesus Can’t Hit a Curveball (gin combined with the bright-green flavors of celery and serrano chiles), Panic at the Pisco (a foamy peach-and-ancho-chile riff on the Pisco sour), and Getting Figgy With It (a fig, cardamom, and genever concoction served in a smoke-filled glass). If cocktails are your thing, this place belongs on your bucket list (and I may add it back to mine!). Hopefully, it won’t be another 20 years before my next visit…

h.