Field Research
Field research is an essential part of any scientific endeavor – such as mixing cocktails. I like to check out what the professionals are serving, and it’s a great opportunity (if the bar is not too busy) to ask questions and sample different boozes you might be considering for your home set-up. It’s interesting to observe first-hand all of the different factors that make for a great night out. Drink quality is key (naturally), but my most recent outing made me think more about the complete experience.
Last month, J and I spent a fun-filled weekend in NYC. We saw two of our favorite bands, schlepped out to Queens for a food festival, escaped a chilly wind amid the exhibits of the New York Historical Society, and ate lox and bagels at Zabars. Saturday night, we decided to skip our regular cocktail venues and explored some new (to us) bars on the Lower East Side. Our first stop was Nitecap. It was the opposite of your stereotypical speakeasy, and I mean that in the best possible way. No secret door, no hushed voices, no bartenders in sideburns and suspenders. The place was bustling with a diverse crowd and the jukebox (in reality, an iPod; old lingo dies hard!) was jamming with classic and contemporary R&B, making the dark basement space seem warm and inviting.
We sat at the bar to watch the action and ordered our first round. J’s was a vermouth and amaro sparkler – the sweet balanced by the bitter, with lots of floral and herbal flavors. I went for a tequila-and-mezcal version of a Manhattan – earthy and smoky, the agave flavors enhanced by a hint of sweetness and a touch of salt. Encouraged, we dove whole-heartedly into round two. J selected an inspired take on the julep, which paired small-batch bourbon with red berry, lemon, cinnamon and vanilla. Mine was a delicious mashup of rum, scotch, spiced pear, and molé bitters that somehow worked. I loved that the cocktails were creative, with unusual and assertive combinations of flavors.
“There’s a lot going on in that glass, like a flavor rollercoaster.”
We took a flyer on the second place, based on the recommendation of Nitecap's bartender. The vibe was totally different – large, well-lit, exposed brick and wood, a post-collegiate crowd, probably from nearby NYU, Phish coming through the speakers. The liquors behind the bar were top-shelf, and the cocktail menu looked as inventive as our first spot. Perhaps it was an off night (which is why the bar goes unnamed) but my drink, a forgettable whiskey concoction, was just “meh.” J’s was several notches below that: gin and scotch were fighting for dominance, while the other components were missing in action. It made me appreciate the talent it took to create those drinks at Nitecap, which could have been a fiasco in less-skilled hands.
Determined to end on a high note, we headed to Bar Goto, a Japanese-inspired oasis. ’Polished’ was the first word that came to mind as we entered. The place was sleek, dark, and sexy, with an upscale clientele. And the drinks were as polished as the décor. J had their riff on the French 75, its traditional ingredients of champagne, gin, and lemon complemented beautifully by the addition of jasmine and apricot. I chose the barley shochu cocktail, flavored with bison grass and fir. Served in a square bamboo box, it was sublime. The subtle flavors were precise and perfectly balanced. The music – 80s metal bands – was unexpected; we learned it was the owner’s favorite. The contrast between Bar Goto and Nitecap was dramatic, yet we thoroughly enjoyed both experiences. I’m already looking forward to our next cocktail adventure!
h.
Red berry julep, Nitecap; shochu cocktail, Bar Goto.
