More on mezcal
I received a few questions after the last post on mezcal, so I decided to share my responses here in case others are interested.
You said tequila and mezcal are cousins. What’s the difference? Historically, mezcal was any liquor distilled from roasted agave - so tequila was a type of mezcal. Today, the spirits are distinguished by two factors: geography (tequila is produced in and around the city of Tequila in Jalisco; mezcal is made throughout the surrounding states, mostly in Oaxaca) and type of agave (only blue agave for tequila, versus a few dozen varieties for mezcal). There are differences in production methods as well. As a rule, tequila is industrial scale, made from cultivated agave that’s been shredded and steamed in an autoclave before fermentation. Mezcal is small scale, often uses wild agave, is fire-roasted in open pits, and ground with a large stone (tahona) or by hand to extract the juices.
How can I tell good mezcal from bad? Taste it! Oh, you meant when shopping. The label should say ‘100% agave’ and list the variety of agave used (e.g., espadin) and where it was made (state or village). Sometimes, it includes the name of the mezcalero (the master who made it), fermentation date, number of distillations, and other information. But really, because the flavors can be so dramatically different, a tasting event or mezcal bar is the way to go.
Recommendations? with links? Here are the producers of some of the mezcals I've enjoyed, in no particular order: Del Maguey (probably the easiest to find), Almamezcalera, Real Minero, Rey Campero, Fidencio, Mezcal Vago, Alipús.
Doesn’t mezcal always contain a worm? No, only the cheap stuff made for gringos (but worms are involved; see next answer).
How should I drink mezcal? The traditional way is best: sipped neat, from a copita (a small clay cup, although a shot glass will work in a pinch), with a side of orange wedges sprinkled with sal de gusano (‘worm salt’, a mixture of sea salt, ground dried chiles, and ground roasted larvae of the agave moth). Alternate sips of mezcal with bites of orange to truly appreciate the flavors.
What about mezcal cocktails? I’m glad you asked! Below are a couple:
Oaxaca Siesta (pictured) - my riff on the margarita; perfect for a hot summer’s day
- 2 oz. mezcal – I’ve used Fidencio Clásico (nicely smoky) and Del Maguey Vida (very smooth)
- ½ oz. lime juice, freshly squeezed
- ½ oz. agave nectar
- 3 slices cucumber, plus one for garnish
- 1 thin slice jalapeño, for garnish
- sal de gusano or pinch of ground dried chile, for garnish
- cocktail shaker, muddler, fine strainer, ice, rocks glass
Steps
- Add cucumber slices, lime juice, and agave nectar to the shaker and muddle
- Add mezcal and ice to the shaker, and shake until well chilled
- Rub the squeezed lime section on half of the glass rim, then dip in sal de gusano
- (or skip this step and garnish the finished drink with a pinch of ground dried chile)
- Fill the rocks glass with ice, double-strain the drink into the glass, and garnish
Mezcal Mule (from Jim Meehan's The PDT Cocktail Book and its namesake bar)
- 1½ oz. Sombra Mezcal
- 1 oz. ginger beer
- ¾ oz. lime juice
- ¾ oz. passionfruit purée
- ½ oz. agave syrup
- 3 slices cucumber, plus one for garnish
- 1 slice candied ginger, for garnish
- pinch of ground dried chile, for garnish
- cocktail shaker, muddler, barspoon, ice, chilled rocks glass
Steps
- Add the agave syrup and cucumber slices to the shaker and muddle
- Add the other ingredients (except garnishes) and ice to the shaker
- Stir until well chilled, strain into rocks glass filled with ice, and garnish
h.
P.S. - Thanks to Jorsand Diaz for the cover photo of agave country.
