The Bittering, part 2
Portland is where I crossed the line into cocktail geekdom. My wife and I were vacationing there in the spring of 2013. I’m a big fan of books (the old-fashioned, print-on-paper kind) and independent bookstores - staff picks are a great way to discover new writers and topics. So, after the obligatory stop at Voodoo Doughnut, we strolled over to Powell’s City of Books. And that’s where I encountered Bitters: A Spirited History of a Classic Cure-All by Brad Thomas Parsons.
I picked up a copy for my partner-in-crime/co-blogger Rick. Our impromptu happy hours had evolved from beer and wine to classic cocktails a few years earlier, so it seemed an appropriate choice. However, I did not realize that the book included, in addition to a thorough history and drink recipes, detailed instructions for making your own bitters. Some of the ingredients were unusual (devil’s claw, anyone?) but the process itself seemed straightforward, so we decided to give it a go.
Like most obsessions, it began innocently enough. We started with some basics – aromatic and orange versions – and adhered to the recipes religiously. The resulting bitters were remarkably good. Emboldened by our success, we tried our hand at some less-common flavors: grapefruit, cherry hazelnut, meyer lemon, spiced pear. And the recipes became more guide than gospel, as we fiddled with the amounts and components. A couple of batches were merely okay, while a few have been revelations (cedar smoke! rhubarb!). A big part of the fun was matching the bitters to the appropriate cocktails, which required a good deal of boozy research. We were hooked.
For our spring 2017 bitter-making session, we chose three flavors that seem suited to the approaching seasons: key lime for the summer (think gin and tonics, or margaritas), pecan (for those early fall old-fashioneds), and dried fig (good in a variety of holiday beverages). The first two are largely derived from the Parsons book, but the third is entirely original (a fig-ment of our imaginations, if you will). We’ll let you know how they turn out, and report back when we’ve identified the perfect cocktail partners. Until then, time for more research!
Fig bitters recipe
- 1 cup dried figs, chopped
- zest of 1 lemon, cut into strips
- 1/4 tsp black peppercorns
- 1/4 tsp pink peppercorns
- pinch black walnut leaf
- 1/4 tsp calamus root
- 1/4 tsp quassia chips
- 5 cardamom pods, lightly crushed
- 1 small sprig rosemary
- 1 cup overproof (100+) vodka or Everclear
- 1 cup overproof bourbon
- 2 Tbsp rich syrup
Steps
- Combine all ingredients except rich syrup in large sealed jar.
- Steep for two weeks, shaking daily to mix.
- Strain through fine-mesh strainer, saving liquid and solids.
- Strain liquid again through cheesecloth into large jar; seal and store.
- In sauce pan, add solids to one cup water.
- Heat until just boiling, then simmer for five minutes.
- Remove from heat; after cooling, transfer to large sealed jar.
- Steep for one week, shaking daily to mix.
- Strain through fine-mesh strainer, saving liquid; discard solids.
- Strain liquid again through cheesecloth into large jar.
- Combine both strained liquids; add rich syrup; seal and store.
- After three days, skim any foam and repeat straining steps.
- Dispense into small (1 or 2 ounce) eyedropper bottles.
h.
