As part of our continuing education in vermouth, R and I rounded up the usual suspects for a tasting experiment. Guinea pigs/guest tasters J, M, and RM agreed to assist us in this noble endeavor. Much like the gin-and-tonic matrix of last year, we chose a single cocktail for analysis: the Manhattan. With just three components - whiskey, sweet vermouth, bitters - it's the ideal drink for comparing the flavors of different vermouths. The contenders, in no particular order, were:

Martini and Rossi Rosso - widely available, inexpensive, and quite tasty; its fruity sweetness is balanced by an herbal bitterness (think bay leaf and tobacco) and a touch of mocha.

Carpano Antica Formula - trendy favorite for craft cocktails; a subtle mix of dried fruit (figs, dates, cherries, apricots), vanilla, and cinnamon, with a caramel finish.

Punt e Mes - more assertive than the first two; raisins and prunes on the start, tart cranberries and orange zest in the middle, piney herbs and tannins at the end.

Byrrh Grand Quinquina - technically an aromatized wine; light-bodied, wine and berry flavors overlaying a delicate foundation of dark chocolate and quinine bitterness.

The next variable to consider was the whiskey: bourbon or rye? We opted for one of each, Elijah Craig Small Batch Bourbon and Redemption Rye. The drinks were prepared in the classic proportions - two ounces of whiskey, one ounce of sweet vermouth, two dashes of bitters - stirred with ice and served up. We used our home-made aromatic bitters, which has a similar flavor profile to Angostura bitters. And we skipped the traditional garnish of brandied cherries, to focus on the flavors of the various vermouths.

Our first test was to determine the influence of bitters on the taste of the cocktail. Wow, what a difference! Just as salt enhances the flavors of a dish, bitters brings out the different elements of the whiskey and vermouth. As M noted, "this drink [w/o bitters] is a four, but that one [after adding bitters] is an eight!" We then proceeded to sample each of the different whiskey/vermouth combinations (all with bitters).

Unlike the gin and tonic tasting, when each of us had a different favorite, there was much more agreement this time. The panel split evenly between a preference for bourbon or rye, but Carpano was the consensus top pick for both groups. It added woodsy, earthy notes to balance the corn sweetness of bourbon, and contributed a warmth and depth to the dry, spicy bite of rye. Always pushing the envelope, R went a bit off-menu with a 50/50 blend of Carpano and Punt e Mes for his rye Manhattan. It was also excellent, and I can understand why it's his go-to version of the drink.

All of these vermouths made excellent Manhattans, but the others might be better suited to different drinks. The M&R Rosso was more background player than equal partner to the whiskey; I imagine it would work well with brandy, as in the classic Harvard or Metropolitan cocktails (not the Cosmopolitan variation of the same name). Punt e Mes seems ideal for a Negroni, paired with the equally assertive flavors of gin and Campari. And the Byrrh? Perfect as an apéritif, chilled, with a twist of orange. Yum!

I foresee more vermouth experiments in my future...

h.