In keeping with the theme of recent posts, today’s topic is amaro (plural, amari). It’s the Italian word for bitter, and also a type of bitter Italian liqueur. Amari are the drinkable cousins of cocktail bitters, and contain many of the same ingredients. Barks, roots, citrus peels, spices, herbs, and other botanicals are marinated in a neutral spirit, which is then sweetened and diluted to create the final product.

Amaro is a time-honored tradition in Italy. Prior to commercial production, amari were made for personal consumption, from closely guarded family recipes that were passed down through the generations. Bitter herbal liqueurs are not uniquely Italian, and examples are found throughout Western Europe – from Avèze (France) to Zwack (Hungary). Even the US is getting in on the action. I recently discovered Don Ciccio & Figli in my own DC backyard, where I sampled an impressive variety of amari and other liqueurs based on century-old Italian formulas.

Traditionally, amaro is sipped neat after a meal (digestivo), or served before dining as an aperitivo (usually lightened by mixing with prosecco or seltzer). While I can heartily recommend this method of consumption, amaro really shines when used in cocktails. Witness the current popularity of the Negroni, which owes its ruby-red hue and bitter orange tang to Campari. Or consider Fernet and Coke, a menthol-and-eucalyptus take on the Cuba Libre that’s the unofficial national drink of Argentina. Amaro-focused cocktail menus abound. There are even entire bars dedicated to this bitter beverage: a personal favorite is Amor y Amargo (‘love and bitters’) in New York’s East Village.

Amari offer a stunning range of flavors – orange, licorice, rhubarb, gentian – with an intensity and complexity that pairs perfectly with virtually any spirit. If you’re a fan of Manhattans (and who isn’t?), then try the Black Manhattan. Sweet vermouth is replaced by Amaro Averna, whose citrus-and-chocolate flavors create a dark, brooding version of the classic. It’s the perfect drink for contemplating the mysteries of the universe, and the pleasures of a well-crafted cocktail.

Black Manhattan

• 2 oz. bourbon or rye whiskey
• 1 oz. Amaro Averna
• two dashes Angostura bitters
• cocktail cherry, to garnish
• shaker, ice, bar spoon, chilled martini glass or coupe

Steps

• Half-fill shaker with ice.
• Add liquid ingredients.
• Stir until well chilled.
• Strain into glass.
• Garnish with cherry.

Interested readers should check out Amaro by Brad Thomas Parsons for in-depth coverage of this fascinating beverage.

h.